Tiptoe Thursday Tipple-Yves Cuilleron Condrieu ‘Les Chaillets’, 2010, Rhône Valley, France
This Sunday, Andy Appleton is demonstrating his recipe for Cornish Fish Stew at the Rock Oyster Festival. We challenged our Head Sommelier Gordon Lawrence to find a wine to match:
Thinking about Condrieu…
Having dinner with a very old friend last week I ordered a bottle of Chateau Grillet. This wine comes from the Northern Rhone and is next to the appellation of Condrieu. The two make wine with Viognier, very much in the style of the next-door appellation. My friend made a silly grumpy face and said that he had recently bought a case of Condrieu and had given it all away, as it was too ‘overblown’ for his taste. This highlights the difference in styles you can find from different producers from within the same region. As we both prefer wines with some poise and elegance, there are some producers we should avoid who use Viognier to give a rich oily texture.
This leads me to my wine choice to go with this dish, Yves Cuilleron Condrieu ‘Les Chaillets’, 2010, Rhône Valley, France. The Fish Stew is a bit of a ‘kitchen sink’ dish with a lot of bold flavours thrown in: fennel, spice, tomato, crab and mussels. This needs a wine with some body and a hint of aromatic structure. The fragrant apricot of Viognier compliments the rich sweetness of crab and mussels with the spice. This producer also makes a wine with plenty of fresh acidity to work with the fresh tomato flavours. Condrieu can give wines with a fine balance between these rich aromatics and the elegance that so many of our customers are looking for at the moment.